This is a photo diary of my costuming "travels"; where I've learned and struggled to make historical costumes for myself. They're not always pretty, but always fun, most of the time. And I want to share with others what I learn along the way. **You can find me on Facebook, https://www.facebook.com/Time-Traveling-in-Costume-640703499399817/ or have my posts delivered to your email by signing up at the lower part of the right column.**



About Me

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HI, my name is Val. I'm a member of Costumer's Guild West in Los Angeles, Dean of 2018 & 2024 Costume College; Past President of the San Diego Costume Guild, and a representative of the San Diego History Center. I also put on historical fashion shows for various groups. I make my own historical costumes but don't sell any unless I get tired of one.The eras I've made so far are 1770 up to 1918. My favorite is the 1880s bustle.

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Tuesday, June 10, 2025

BEGINNING COSTUMERS: THIS ONE'S FOR YOU! - A chemise

The first thing we, as costumers, always recommend to those new to it is to make your underpinnings first. That’s usually the chemise, drawers (or combinations), a petticoat, and a corset. It can all be intimidating to someone new to it. I think making a chemise can be a good place to start. You should be wearing one of those under your corset to protect it and prevent chafing, and also to protect the dress fabrics. After many years of wearing my combinations, I have returned to a chemise and drawers again. I’ve been relying on my older Regency shifts because of the drawstring neckline that I needed for many of my Victorian dresses. I decided now that I have some extra time before another event, I should make some new ones.

Being lazy these days, I pulled out the very first Truly Victorian pattern I’d bought, #102, for my chemise. This was so quick and easy to put together, I cut it out and finished it in one day.

Basically, you turn the edges under around the necklines of the front and back pattern pieces, sew the side & shoulder seams together, and then sew on a short ruffly sleeve to it. Another option is to just turn those edges around the armholes under too. The pattern also suggests an option to add a self-fabric or lace ruffle to the hem. I chose to have just a plain hem.

You do have to have a drawstring channel sewn around the neckline, and the pattern offers a quick and easy way to do that. Use beading lace that you top sew to the neckline and then run a pretty color ribbon through it. Done!

 I made mine with a very lightweight cotton voile that is extremely soft that I bought from the Kansas Mercantile.




There you go! Take that first step!