This is a photo diary of my costuming "travels"; where I've learned and struggled to make historical costumes for myself. They're not always pretty, but always fun. most of the time. And I want to share with others what I learn along the way. **You can find me on Facebook, or have my posts delivered to your email by signing up at the lower part of the right column.**



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HI, my name is Val. I'm a member of Costumer's Guild West in Los Angeles, member & Past President of the San Diego Costume Guild, member of Orange County Costume Guild, a representative of the San Diego History Center, & an honorary member of SITU (Someplace in Time, Unlimited) in Seattle. I make my own historical costumes but don't sell any unless I get tired of one.The eras I've made so far are 1770 up to 1918. My favorite is the 1880s bustle.

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Wednesday, November 1, 2017

1888-1889 The Revival of the Directoire Style & The End of the Bustle

A few years ago, I bought a book that the photos of dresses on the cover really caught my eye. It was during the late bustle period starting in 1888 and the bustles were disappearing by then. They looked more tailored and not fluffy like the earlier dresses. What was catching my eye was the open-robe type bodice and overskirt, kind of like wearing an open coat over your dress. Although at that time, I didn’t make the connection with the earlier open-robes of the 1790s. The book was “Directoire Revival Fashions 1888-1889”. In the ensuing years, I’ve never heard that term used. But recently a few fashion photos caught my eye again, and I decided to take a closer look at this short-lived style. 
I started searching on the internet for Directoire revival, with no luck. My friend, Cindy, told me she’d read something somewhere about the style being taken from the opera, La Tosca by Sardou. She suggested I use the terms differently, so I then started searching for revival 1880s Directoire fashion, and came up with this Google Books document from The Dictionary of Costume Fashion by Valerie Cummings, C.W. Cunnington, & P.E. Cunnington.  The document broke the style down into Directoire hats, coats, skirt, jacket, AND the swallow-tail coat. THAT’S what was catching my eye, and now I had a name for it.
DESCRIPTIONS FROM THE DICTIONARY OF COSTUME FASHION-
Directoire styles, late 1880s-1910: The revival of Directoire styles was inspired by Sardou’s drama, La Tosca, as played by the French actress, Sarah Bernhardt in 1887. The sleek, narrow lines and higher waistlines recalled the fashions worn in France in the last years of the 18th century, though the corsetry and silhouette was unmistakeably of the later time.
1888 Directoire coat: The bodice of the day dress in the form of a double- or single-breasted coat cut across horizontally above the waist line in front, falling vertically at the sides and from a gathering at the back of the waist, to the ankles. Tight sleeves with cuffs. Worn with a wide folded sash round the waist. If double-breasted, worn with a habit shirt; if single breasted, worn open with a shirt blouse.
1888 Directoire jacket: A similar bodice of a day dress but without the skirt portion of the Directoire coat.
1895(?) Directoire skirt: A day skirt made with 7-gores, the four at the back being fluted. It was lined and stiffened with horsehair, and measured 14 to 18 feet around the hem.
1888 Directoire swallow-tail coat: The back of the directoire coat, cut into tails with a deep central vent between; An afternoon dress style.
1888 Directoire hat: similar to the directoire bonnet description but larger-A square, moderately high- crowned bonnet, the brim fitting over the ears, spreading out above the forehead.

So, it was a swallow-tail coat. It also reminded me of the polonaise of the 1870s.Then I went on a rabid hunt for more fashion prints with the dates 1887-1890, because they would come out earlier to affect the following years. I saw a couple that went into the 1890s before the sleeve puffs started at the shoulders. Most of them were just mixed in with other styles of the same time period, so it wasn’t widely shown.
This article mentions the Directoire style on the bottom right photo.
This first fashion plate from 1887 is from the Costume Institute. Even though it still has some bustle in back, definitely has the open-coat look starting.
These were a couple favorites I saved from 1888 Peterson’s Magazine, Journal des Demoiselles, and La Mode Francaise. 


This is from one of the fashion magazines that you can see the back of the coat.
These 1889 fashion prints are from La Petit Echo de la Mode, and Revue de la Mode magazines.


Being curious of what was going under the dresses then, I found a walking skirt and a couple of the bustled skirt being worn in Delineator Magazine. It’s not totally flat yet, which I like, because I’m not ready to give up my bustle at this point either. The second and third photo of the bustle looks like the skirt itself is bustled and the coat would go over that.


I couldn’t find a dated bustle for the two years but this looks close to what would be needed under them.

So, inquiring minds want to know: how do I make this? While reading the descriptions from the Costume History, my mind would jump to patterns I had that each part of the dress and hat would remind me. Since I’m able to easily use Truly Victorian patterns, and have a good many of them already, that was a piece of cake. Starting with the bodice, there’s a couple options to work with. First is the TV #462 Tail bodice pattern, which I would extend the skirt portion farther forward so I have the pleating in the center back, and smooth sides. Another idea is to add the tail to TV#466, which has the lapels needed, and a center section.

An alternative top would be to use VPLL (Vintage Pattern Lending Library/ available on etsy) #672, and just add sleeves and the tails. 
This skirt may or may not need too much altering using TV #261, unless you were picky and wanted all 7-gores rather than the 4 it has. 
And finally, I immediately thought of this TV #551 hat pattern from the description. I’ve seen it made up and it’s adorable.
Here are more of the pretties. You can see my collection of 1888-1889 fashion prints on my Pinterest page , and you’ll see variations of the style on other dresses there. https://www.pinterest.com/timetravels/1888-1889-the-end-of-the-bustle/







~~~Val~~~




















2 comments:

  1. Hi! I'm crazy in love with the bustle period. Started to collect fashion magazines of that era (1868-'89) from my teens. Dedicated a website to them to share with the public, you can read the hungarian and english translation (by me) here about the latter years: http://welcome-to-the-plastic-age-vi.webnode.hu/tags/Divattud%C3%B3s%C3%ADt%C3%A1sok/Fashion%20articles And lots of patterns here: http://welcome-to-the-plastic-age-vi.webnode.hu/tags/Szab%C3%A1smint%C3%A1k/Patterns/

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    1. Thank you Melinda, thats a great source of information! I'll be spending some time looking through it.
      I've shortened the url. http://tinyurl.com/ybbszzzv AND http://tinyurl.com/ybs2uv7q
      Val

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I would love to hear if this was any help to you. Pretty please!