This is a photo diary of my costuming "travels"; where I've learned and struggled to make historical costumes for myself. They're not always pretty, but always fun, most of the time. And I want to share with others what I learn along the way. **You can find me on Facebook, https://www.facebook.com/Time-Traveling-in-Costume-640703499399817/ or have my posts delivered to your email by signing up at the lower part of the right column.**



About Me

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HI, my name is Val. I'm a member of Costumer's Guild West in Los Angeles, Dean Emeritus of 2018 Costume College; Past President of the San Diego Costume Guild, member of Orange County Costume Guild, and a representative of the San Diego History Center. I make my own historical costumes but don't sell any unless I get tired of one.The eras I've made so far are 1770 up to 1918. My favorite is the 1880s bustle.

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Saturday, November 14, 2020

1908 A NEW THING – A JUMPER COSTUME

 

I learned a new thing this morning. While looking on Pinterest for a picture from 1908, I came across a fashion plate showing a sleeveless bodice that a blouse is worn under. This was not new to me, because I had others I’d saved in my Make Me file. Some had a slight sleeve as in the photo above, and some had slightly ruffled short sleeves. Others had NO SLEEVE at all, like this one in my file.

I’d already made something similar a few years ago in 2016. I’d found this line drawing in a fashion plate that I liked. I didn’t have enough fabric for sleeves, so decided to make it more like a vest.  I liked it because it was cooler, although my dress fabric. a mid-weight polyester drapery fabric, was not. But I loved the fabric, so you do what you have to do.


I had a few other fashion plates saved too, that showed a transition from the appearance of a “vest”, and they were wearing a guimpe, or under-blouse, to actually separating the blouse from the bodice. It seemed a natural transition, and used less fabric. Way back in 2011 I had tried making a pattern from the Edwardian Modiste book for this 1907 bodice, and it was very similar to this lady’s dress cropped from a 1906 wedding party. Due to some miscalculations, I had to re-do it, but it never was finished. It still sits in a ziplock bag somewhere, including my fabric, which is a cheap polyester but was perfect for this.



These are some others I’d saved. Note the changing sleeves on them. 







A couple dresses caught my eye today while I was doing a totally different search, all from 1908 fashion plates. But this one from McCalls (April 1908) had a description jumped out at me: New Ideas in Jumper Costumes. I’d never heard that term before. So, I began a further search. 

I found these articles from Delineator Magazine from their May 1908 issue. They were a thing! In the article, the loosely draped sleeves were called Grecian style. Some of the jumpers were simply called Bretelles, if they basically just had straps. 






The sleeveless, or near sleeveless, style also created this tunic to go over dresses too. The pattern is from Past Patterns #3973. It looks simple but has extremely minimal directions.  



In the years since I first tried the Edwardian Modiste book to try and drape one, now there is a pattern for the same bodice by Black Snail Patterns, #0117 available on etsy. I haven’t tried mine yet but was told it made up very well, but required fitting. 

All the ones I’m seeing are matching jumper and skirt, so no contrasting fabrics in those. But reading the article, this would be a game changer for the dressmaker, using less fabric, simpler to make, and easy to change her look with different blouses/guimpes. Granted, some of these are still some pretty fancy designs.








Sunday, November 8, 2020

1820s SILHOUETTE OF THE ROMANTIC PERIOD, or is it?

 Since I’m still not sewing, I did some research to educate myself on the 1820s dresses. I keep hoping that the more I look at dresses I want to make, the more the enthusiasm will build up where I will actually start them. I even share a photo of dresses I’ve saved in my Make Me file on Facebook each day in the same hopes. So far, not much luck there.

I’ve had two mourning dresses from the 1820s in my Make Me file for a few years, and recently I decided to try and find out more about the silhouette of them. This era did a 180 degree turn from the simple and narrow Regency classicism style. I knew they had a lot of fluffy trims around the hemline, done in a variety of ways, and that the waistline was coming down from the empire waist of the 1810-1820 Regency style to almost the waist. But what surprised me was they looked so similar to what I’d been looking at and making from the 1830s. The big puffy sleeves, the hairstyles and hats were throwing me off. Then I realized that I may have been thinking some of the pictures I’d seen, that I had automatically dated as early to mid to late 1830s, could actually have been the 1820s. So, were they? Very confusing. These are the two dresses that started me on this path, dated 1825 & 1827, that I wanted to make. I’ve worn that same hair style and turban with my 1835 dresses that I copied from fashion plates of that later time period. Was I wrong?



For comparison, these are two fashion plates from 1820s and 1839. Pretty similar, don’t you think?


Now that I’ve been digging around on Pinterest and the internet, I’m starting to see the differences. First off, in subtle differences, 1820s skirts weren’t as full. They were slightly flared with gores on the sides, and the fullness was pulled and gathered to the back. And they didn’t have off-the-shoulder necklines. The sleeves were puffed at the top. And then of course, 1820s skirts had all kinds of fancy trimming along the hemline. From these two fashion plates, an 1824 day dress, and 1825 promenade dress, you can definitely see the waistline isn’t AT the waist yet, as it will be in the 1830s. Both of these were also in my Make Me file where the one with scallops would be made in a cotton print, and I must have a pumpkin-colored pelisse-robe that was a popular day dress style.


This is where a lot of the whackiness comes in, both in trims and hats.



And, of course, I must have a black one. I think I have at least one black one in every decade that I want to make.

From FIT NYC, they described the changes towards the end of the 1820s.

https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1820-1829/

As the waistline dropped, the skirt and sleeves widened; by 1825, the early Romantic silhouette was established with a natural waistline, large puffed sleeves, and a wide skirt with an increasing number of gores. Through the second half of the 1820s, this silhouette only became more exaggerated. The breadth of sleeves grew exponentially into true gigot or leg-o-mutton styles by 1827, and skirts became so wide that gores were no longer enough and the volume of material began to be pleated into the waistband in 1828. When the decade drew to a close, the waistline was tightly cinched, skirts had expanded into a wide bell, and the gigot sleeve had reached such epic proportions that “the upper arm appeared to be quite double the size of the waist.

So, doesn’t that sound like they’re describing dresses in the 1830s too? I’m so confused.

And this was their description of the skirt and bodice trims:

Three-dimensional trim and decoration lavished dresses in the 1820s. Skirts in particular were festooned with layers of decoration on the hem; a trend of frills and tucks began in the previous decade, but in the early 1820s this blossomed into elaborate trims of lace and flounces, puffs, and rouleaux which were tubes of bias-cut fabric filled with wadding to create a firm roll. This weighty decoration caused hemlines to shorten above the floor, and hemlines were padded with cotton or wool.


In the last years…..trim on the bodice tended to point downwards to converge at the waist. Sleeves became elaborately decorated as well, and could feature imitations of slashing, puffs, and sleeve caps, or mancherons. Edges finished with deep points were called “vandyck points,” a reference to seventeenth-century artist Anthony van Dyck whose portraits served as inspiration. Early 1820s, day dresses were often completed with a ruff at the neck.


Later in the decade, wide, white pelerines were worn which echoed the “falling band” of the seventeenth century. There was a particular style of day dress that should also be noted: the pelisse-robe. Derived from the pelisse, a type of long coat, the pelisse-robe was a coat-dress worn especially in the morning for walking. In the evening, necklines lowered, and sleeves generally shortened, although in the early 1820s, long sleeves were sometimes seen. It was especially stylish to wear a short sleeve covered with or attaching to a long, transparent sleeve of gauze or net.“

Ok, so now this sounds more definitive of the 1820s, and a way to separate the styles of each decade.

From there, I looked at the hats and hair. This is from 1828. Once again, they confused me. This is what I saw being worn in the 1830s too, including the hairstyles. The first is 1828, the second & third, 1830s.



At least one thing was consistent; they’re still wearing the earlier Regency period corsets. The underpinnings could be another blog post. I haven’t made an 1820s dress yet, but I’ve worn my later Victorian corset under my 1830s dresses. This one is dated from 1825 to 1835.

So, out of all this confusion, comes a thought. The Romantic Period was the ENTIRE TWO DECADES OF 1820 AND 1830, with the styles basically the same instead of changing every 10 years like they often do. But with a few subtle differences to the skirt and some trims. So, there you have it. Its as plain as mud, don’t you think? 


Saturday, August 29, 2020

BEGINNING STAGES OF MY 1830s PROJECT FOR 2020

 What do you do when you don’t feel like sewing, or have any enthusiasm to even try?

You plan.  So, I’m just going to show you some pretty pictures and fabrics, and that will have to suffice for now. Who knows, it may inspire me to do something. No promises but maybe some baby steps.

While my 1860s Project has fizzled (in truth, I am doing some cartridge pleating on the 3 skirts but haphazardly), I went forward on planning my 1830s Project of cutting and sewing 3-4-5, maybe 6, at a time. I’m undecided at this point which of my plaid silk taffetas I want to attack first, so it may just be 4.

First thing I did was gather all my dress photos that I wanted to make and decided what style to do. I’ve done about 4 of the pleated front bodices, so I want to try a crossover style, and a V-neck style. I’m a little tired of the off-the-shoulder styles. AND I want to be able to close them IN FRONT!!




Oh heck, let’s just throw in a mourning dress, and maybe an archery dress, although I don’t do archery but I can carry an arrow around with me.

And trust me, I have enough fabric in my stash, including some solids, to make all these plus a few more.



 
  

It’s the necklines that are going to confound me. I’ve got a couple different patterns I haven’t used yet but none are quite what I want, so it’s going to take some altering.

This Period Impressions pattern 1837 Day dress has a front seam that could be changed to be opened, and it’s got those cute sleeve finishes.  Past Patterns #806 Lowell Mill Dress, also has cute sleeves and I bet I could change the front to a front closure but don’t like that straight neckline.

 

Surprisingly this Butterick 5832, which was copied off an 1841 extant dress, could be used for the V-neckline. I haven’t pulled out the pattern yet so I don’t know if it’s actually pleated in front or if that’s an overlay. And I might be able to extend it to make it a crossover, like this 1838 extant dress. It’s got cute sleeves too. Then someone pointed out View C on this Laughing Moon pattern #103 that has a crossover bodice that might help in my construction, even though its 1890s. As more ideas come in for doing this, the more excited I get. It takes a bit of the scary out of it. 



 
 

Speaking of scary; I keep saying I want to make those gathered/smocked sleeves but when it comes right down to it, they look scary. I haven’t found any directions yet how they do those. I’m assuming you cut out the humongous sleeve, then cartridge-pleat/smock wherever you want it, either from the shoulders down, or mid-upper arm, then sew the sleeve seams together. Inquiring minds want to know. I don’t know of anyone who’s tried them yet. I think possibly just gathering them down and putting a ruffle around the bottom might work too. This extant dress shows off the smocking very well. I would also LOVE to find fabric like that. I can’t believe how brilliantly colorful it still is. And again, this makes me want to go fabric shopping, for yet MORE fabric. 

And now, let's talk pelerines! I have a couple antique ones but have been thinking about making some myself. This one from the series Gentleman Jack, looks like one I would enjoy making, and that bonnet included.

These antique ones would be good shapes to try also. Its easier to add ruffles to these than to find an embroidered fabric you could use.


I ran across this one on Pinterest. It has a wide ruffle but finished with a delicate lace trim.

These two are interesting, both from 1837, and the longer one would be fun.


The trick to making these is to shape the pattern to have a curved neck. Otherwise it bunches up around your neck. This photo of the one I own shows that shape. I’ve since done a repair on the little tear with as tiny stitches as I could possibly do, so it wouldn’t tear further. I only wear it for short periods of time, or for fashion shows.


I may have some extra fine cotton voile in my stash somewhere to get started on one of these. And the easiest one to start would be using the pattern I made off of my antique one. Small hand projects seems to be the way to go these days as they don’t seem to be too overwhelming. I’ve still been hand sewing 18th C kerchiefs and selling them almost as soon as I post one, so I’d like to give the 1830s ones a try too.