The Pattern:
I was going to include this in Part I but it was getting a
little long and this part could get a bit boring since it was more “technical”. But breathe easy, it won’t be very long. I’m not the technical type person so it will
be in my layman’s terms, ie, understandable to those of us who have trouble
understanding patterns. This was my answer to lessen my confusion with it.
If you’re not familiar with the term “flatlining” this is a
period method of giving support to the main fashion fabric bodice by cutting
and sewing a heavier fabric, such as a cotton or twill, to the main
piece along its edges, and now you treat it as a single piece. Then if you want
to line it later you can, or just doing facings on the edges to finish it. My
first TV gown was missing this because I didn’t understand it, and Heather
McNaughton tried very hard to convince me it was really needed. And she was
right. It does keep it from looking wrinkly. If you think your fashion fabric
is too limp, this is your solution to give it body.
As previously mentioned, this was the pattern I’m using,
Truly Victorian’s #455.
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IMPORTANT: PATTERN PIECES FRONT LINING A & BACK LINING C ARE
WHAT SHOULD BE FITTED TO YOU. Then the corresponding D & E sizes should be matched to them.
This was the pattern layout. Because of the width of the
pattern pieces it was placed on a single layer of fabric so the shaded pieces
indicate that they were cut twice. This is what confused me when I saw the pieces labeled A & D and C & E, when they were actually just representative of those particular pieces being used twice. So ignored that and you will be happier.
These are the individual pattern pieces. You can see on both
sets the pattern pieces are similar but one is a bit smaller. The larger one D on the
left is the main fashion fabric, while the smaller copy A on the right is used
for lining and flatlining/interlining on D.
Fronts
D & A:
This section of the front D (where my felt marker is) has to
be gathered or pleated down at the center front and shoulder so it matches the
size of front A.
***I almost forgot this- the backs have additional instructions that the Right side is a little wider than the Left so it has an overlap for the closure. So I cut a Right and a Left out, just to make it easier when cutting. ***
Confused yet? I was. Back in 2009, when I first made this, I
cut the patterns out and you can see how ratty they’ve gotten. This time I
traced them onto pattern paper to save the originals. My solution to my
confusion this time was to trace the pattern out and have one group in a baggie
for the Lining/flatlining and another for the Fabric, which is basically what
the originals are but having the pieces in separate baggies is helping. Because
while I was working with them I was often getting them mixed up. ** And an idea
just occurred to me while I was typing this: I’m going to re-do the lettering
on my lining pieces in red felt marker so I can see which ones they are right
away.** And here’s another point: the Lining pieces A & E are the ones that
should be fitted to you, not the Fabric pieces.
THIS STEP IS ONLY IF YOU DON’T DO LININGS:
Since I only just use flatlining and not a lining, I had to
put my hook and eye tape in between those two layers before actually sewing the
flatlining to my fabric. So my first step is gathering or pleating the front D
and back E & topstitch that down so it fits the size of A & C.
I would recommend if you ever get a chance to take Shelley
Peters’ class for doing hook & eye tape either in one of her sewing
workshops, or at Costume College, do it. This is something many of us need to
be shown hands-on.
--Val
FOR PART I, GO HERE: http://timetravelingincostume.blogspot.com/2014/01/the-1830s-project-part-i-cranberry.html
FOR PART I, GO HERE: http://timetravelingincostume.blogspot.com/2014/01/the-1830s-project-part-i-cranberry.html
thank you for all your wonderful informative articles Val!
ReplyDeleteI find flatlining to be a lifesaver. It seems like it might be more work in the beginning, but that investment of time really pays off in the end with the quality of the finished garment. I also am a firm believer in 'false hems.'
ReplyDeleteThey were pretty much standard and while a tad more work, do result in a better hang and weight, and since most of them were done in a different, scrap fabric, there are times when depending on the skirts 'swish', adds a bit of unexpected flair.
I totally agree with you, Robin. A couple times the fabric I wanted to use was a bit limp but with that added flatlining, sometimes a nice firm one, my outside fabric was perfect.
DeleteVal