This is a photo diary of my costuming "travels"; where I've learned and struggled to make historical costumes for myself. They're not always pretty, but always fun, most of the time. And I want to share with others what I learn along the way. **You can find me on Facebook, https://www.facebook.com/Time-Traveling-in-Costume-640703499399817/ or have my posts delivered to your email by signing up at the lower part of the right column.**



About Me

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HI, my name is Val. I'm a member of Costumer's Guild West in Los Angeles, Dean of 2018 & 2024 Costume College; Past President of the San Diego Costume Guild, member of Orange County Costume Guild, and a representative of the San Diego History Center. I also put on historical fashion shows for various groups. I make my own historical costumes but don't sell any unless I get tired of one.The eras I've made so far are 1770 up to 1918. My favorite is the 1880s bustle.

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Saturday, February 17, 2024

1887 Autumn Plaid Bustle -3 Years in the Making

Well, this is embarrassing. I didn’t realize that it has taken me almost 3 years to finally finish this dress. And the skirt still needs hemming. If you’d like to read the beginnings & construction of it, this was my post from April 2021. It’s been hibernating since then.  https://timetravelingincostume.blogspot.com/2021/04/getting-back-to-sewing1887-plaid-bustle.html

One of my excuses is I was also working on another similar blue plaid dress about the same time. Whichever one called to me got worked on. My other excuse is good ole procrastination and the Squirrel! -- Ooh, I need a fantasy Regency dress for Costume College! And that Disney Haunted Mansion dress for Halloween, which isn’t finished yet but now has a due date for July. So yeah, those are my excuses. Its been sitting in bits and pieces in my closet and on my sewing table, so I always knew it was watching me.

With the Port Townsend (WA) Victorian Festival fashion show coming up in April, I wanted to finish both the plaid dresses for it. So, I did a little work on them when I could, along with putting together our Costume College event in July. I’ve had to juggle everything depending on what needed working on.

Somewhere in between the last couple years, the bodice fit me, and then it didn’t. I gained a few pounds over the recent holidays and those are going down. But when I tried it on last week, the neck wouldn’t close. What the..???  I don’t know what happened there. It was so long ago, I don’t remember how it was when I first tried it on, and of course it was fine on my dress form. But I didn’t feel like ripping the whole thing out and adding something somewhere. So, I’m going to just let the neckline lay open like a tiny fold down collar. Thankfully I hadn’t done my buttonholes at that time.


In a spurt of enthusiasm a while back, I started trimming the bodice and skirt, using a narrow red braid. It tied the red in with the plaid very nicely. I sewed it around the lapels, the cuffs, and around the hem of the overskirt.



Looking at this now, I’m starting to think I’d like a double row of red braid. So, I’m going to see if I can order some more. I think it would stand out more, especially on the overskirt. Some of my friends have agreed with me. (More has been ordered and is on its way).

Another idea I had was to put a watch pocket on the outside of the bodice, and I’d marked it in black thread so I’d know where it would go. Except when it was time to do that, I realized it was on the right side of the bodice, when it should have been on the left. That’s partly because of being right-handed, its easier to reach across for the watch but was also historically correct. In looking at all the antique photos I have of ladies' watches and watchchains, I could only find one on the right side in one photo. I bet she was a lefty. So, I lined up my markings to the other side, dig out my watch, traced a half-dome shape around it, and cut my fabric. I cut two, sewed them right sides together, leaving a small opening on the side, turned it right-side out and stitched the opening closed. Then I hand-sewed it to my bodice. The watch was a tight fit, but it won’t fall out.




After publishing this, I happened to turn my dress form around to take a photo of the back, and am now thinking it needs "something" on the peplum. So I'll be thinking about that for a while. 

When I started thinking about a hat, here’s something I haven’t worn in a long time; my gold and burnt orange hat that sits on the back of my head, and I think will be perfect for my Autumn Plaid dress. And I have my pretty amber earrings from LadyDetalle. 
 

PS. Wait until you see what else came out of my “Black Hole” sewing room closet recently.

2 comments:

  1. Dear Val,
    Gee, does that red braid look nice! A double row would have more oomph for sure. Plus, love that turn-down collar. It's chic and has presence.
    May the outfit be a big success,
    Natalie in KY

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you, Natalie! We'll see how that collar works when I wear it in April. ~Val

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