This is a photo diary of my costuming "travels"; where I've learned and struggled to make historical costumes for myself. They're not always pretty, but always fun, most of the time. And I want to share with others what I learn along the way. **You can find me on Facebook, https://www.facebook.com/Time-Traveling-in-Costume-640703499399817/ or have my posts delivered to your email by signing up at the lower part of the right column.**



About Me

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HI, my name is Val. I'm a member of Costumer's Guild West in Los Angeles, Dean of 2018 & 2024 Costume College; Past President of the San Diego Costume Guild, and a representative of the San Diego History Center. I also put on historical fashion shows for various groups. I make my own historical costumes but don't sell any unless I get tired of one.The eras I've made so far are 1770 up to 1918. My favorite is the 1880s bustle.

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Thursday, March 6, 2025

COSTUMING IN JANUARY & FEBRUARY 2025

 

It’s all about recycling, reusing, and panic sewing. I started this year with plans on wearing dresses I already had so not to stress myself too much, especially since my “motivator” still doesn’t seem to be working very well. And that was my original plan 15 years ago, to have a costume from every era or decade in spring/summer and fall/winter versions for when I needed them. But as we all know, sometimes those dresses we made that long ago have shrunk in our closets.

Actually I have been doing some sewing. I’ve been cutting out and hand-sewing bunches of kerchiefs and pelerines and hopefully selling them with a friend at the Costume College Trunk Show this year. 

My first costume event of 2025 was the CGW (Costumers Guild West) “Toast the New Year Tea” at the Chado Tea Room in Torrance, CA. It was originally planned for January but due to the LA fires which affected many members, it was rescheduled to March 1. The costume theme was open to any era, and boy, did we have a variety! Roughly guessing from memory, there were at least 30 attendees. We all felt like this was a much-needed break from all the chaos that had been going on. I chose to wear my 1837 purple floral dress since I knew it still fit recently and it was a front opening that I could get into by myself. I also made it easy by just wearing some pinned-on curls covered with my white lacy cap. And I got to wear my antique Belgium tape lace pelerine again.


 

The following weekend I would be presenting a Powerpoint “history of fashion” show for the San Diego branch of the Mayflower Colony at the Green Dragon Tavern & Museum in Carlsbad. I struggled through writing and gathering photos for this for almost two months, because I had been asked to include men in it. I know very little about men’s historical clothing. While trying to do some research online I really had trouble consolidating them into a chronology. Almost everything I found was vague, contradictory, and with very few photos I could use. I did find some from movies and TV series to include that looked pretty accurate to my eye but not much I could talk about. I stressed myself over this so much because I didn’t want to give out incorrect information and be embarrassed if I was called out. But in the end, the group really enjoyed it, and I got a lot of very intelligent questions that I was able to answer.


I decided again to make it easy on myself and wore my 1837 purple dress. I brought my dress form with my 1770s Colonial red, white and blue caraco and petticoat on it, and my friend, Shannon, came as my 1870s model. I also brought underpinnings from just about every decade I was covering and Shannon held those up for me as I described them. The split drawers got the most attention as usual. This group was not very costume oriented, other than the 1620s “pilgrim” time period but found a few who were really interested in the Colonial period that they wanted to try getting into, which looks slightly similar to the 1620s. We even inspired two new costumers and now they both want to come to Costume College in July.  



The San Diego Mayflower Colony President sent me a copy of their newsletter where they were introducing me as their upcoming speaker. At the meeting they also had some nicely printed flyers on the tables using more photos of me and I was happy to see they acknowledged Shannon. They were a very appreciative group of people and later I was approached by two representatives of the San Diego and Escondido branches of the DAR who asked if I would be willing to be their speaker next year. I’ve already done two for the DAR in the past eight years, so I’d like to do something different for them, like a live fashion show if they’re able to handle about 10 of us, since they include us in their meal. We shall see.

 

A week later on February 22nd I had the Riverside Dickens Festival fashion show. All I had to do was show up in my dress and write my own description. And I would wear another 1837 dress, this time in my black cotton dotted Swiss one, as I would be portraying London’s most prolific female serial killer, and who was also in mourning for the husband and child she had killed. The only problem was this dress was a back closure and I didn’t want to deal with that. So my plan was to alter it to a front closure, and I had a week to do it. I also wanted to add a little something to trim it and found a painting of an earlier dress that had a frothy little ruffle around the neckline. I found some chiffon ruffle on etsy, and that arrived within a couple days. There’s not a lot I can talk about on this dress so I added my black turban and was considering also wearing my watch.



 

But this is where the “magic costume closet” failed me. My overall size hadn’t changed too much in 5 years, except for shrinking ½” in height so I now I have to shorten all my dresses. However my upper arms had. This dress was made back in 2014 and my upper arms had gotten a lot pudgier since then. So how hard would it be to unstitch the sleeves, cut the armhole open a little more then let out some of the gathers in the sleeve to fit that. Except it also had piping and that would need adjusting. Once I had the back hook/eye tape removed, I sewed it shut and then opened the front up. Right away I could tell I needed a little bit of my fabric to add to the seam or even make a decorative placket on the front. But I couldn’t find my leftover fabric anywhere! And I only had 4 days left to do all this.

I checked my “closet” for whatever I had dating 1830-1860s to cover my characters time-period but they all probably would have the same sleeve and hem problem. On to Plan B.

Remember back in 2020 I made three 1860s dresses using Truly Victorian’s #452 work dress on my assembly line method? All they needed to be finished were buttons, buttonholes, and hems. That would be soooo much easier to finish in 4 days. The only dress I had buttons for was my royal blue one so that made my decision easy. (No one should laugh at me for my assembly-line method of cutting out and partially sewing three dresses at a time anymore).

The dresses also didn’t have collars yet and I was in no mood to make one. So I went searching online for an idea. I came across this photo that I saved and that gave me an idea. I didn’t have that exact type of collar, but I did have an antique tape lace one and decided to go with it. Then I added my jewelry. I think the brooch is Agate but I’m not sure. Surprisingly I don’t have an 1860s bonnet or hat, so I’ll just wear my black lace cap and shock everyone. Hmmm, maybe I can do some shopping while at the Dickens Festival. I had it all done on Thursday morning, and now I can relax.

 
 

These are a couple photos I came across that someone took of me in the Dickens fashion show, and a screenshot from a video that was being filmed in front of me while I was sitting on the wall of the water fountain.


 

Of course we all know what happens when you relax; your mind starts planning. I’m going to a sewing workshop the following weekend on the 28th, and I can finally start working on a Regency day dress in hopes of going to a picnic later this year. I love the planning stage. I do way too much of that but it makes it all fun. I want to start this blue floral block printed cotton voile one that came from India on etsy and possibly cut out an all-white one (haven't decided which fabric yet) at the same time. I’ll be using the Nehelenia bodice portion since it’s already been fitted on me and came out really nice but making a much narrower skirt. I’m going to put some pleated self-fabric trim on the neckline too.




I even have two possible bonnets I can wear with it, although the green one is a bit big on my head. And maybe in the future I can make a couple Spencers to go with it, one using this blue silk dupioni that was gifted to me back in 2003, and another in hunter green linen.


  



 
And to just throw some more fun into my life, we’re in the planning stages for the Port Townsend (WA) Victorian Festival fashion show on May 3. I’m hoping to wear yet another dress from the closet and it also needs some enlarging (arms) and shrinking (hem) But I have time, and I know where that extra fabric is. Wait, now I know where that extra fat in my arms came from, my height!

My next fashion show I’m in is May 11 at the Harvey Girls Museum In Perris, CA. It was cancelled last year so I stalled on finishing my 1911 Blue Embroidered dress. The skirt needs finishing. I’m still not sure about the layout of those panels in front. I may lose the center one. Ideas are to add some covered decorative buttons down the front of the two panels, and I need to work out how to make my belt. I’ve saved a few ideas on that. So I plan/hope to do that and not have to do any altering on something else to wear. 

In the meantime, I’ve continued making my hand-sewn kerchiefs and pelerines, some using new shapes I made by tracing off some antique ones I bought. These are some of the pelerines I made, and I’ve started making some really pretty ones in black voile too. My plans are to accumulate a bunch of them as my friend & I hope to share a table and sell things at the Trunk Show at Costume College this year. 




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